Day 5: Arnouva to La Fouly

The hotel last night was in a perfect spot, at Lavachey, on a fast moving river in the Val Ferret, with the mountains and forest all around. Although not actually on the Tour du Mont Blanc itself, it was in a valley beneath where I’d walked on Day 4. Facilities were a bit basic , with a shared bathroom and toilet, but there was nice home cooking and the staff were all very welcoming. This was to contrast with my experience at the end of the day….

First I had to catch another of the excellent free buses that run in this area. The first one to come along (at 758 am on a Sunday) was jam packed and I didn’t fancy trying the squeeze in like a tube commuter, when it was driving fast up winding mountain roads. Luckily the next was a lot better and so by 830 I was back climbing again, this time aiming for the Italian/Swiss border at Grand Col Ferret.

Although in the shade of the mountains at first, by 930 I was in direct sunlight and the path seemed trickier than past ones. I really was getting fed up, but I knew from the signage that even going slowly I should get to the top by 1130, so that kept me going. Then I suddenly realised the top was at 2537 metres, and I was only insured for up to 2500 metres! So you can imagine how careful I was when I approached the top. You know insurance companies try and wriggle out of paying anything if you have an accident- and on an international border too!

The top was another superlative viewpoint, and I actually became quite emotional being there. This trip is actually a bit of an emotional rollercoaster . While you’re going up, you wonder why you’re doing it. At the top there’s a feeling of elation. Doing something you never once thought possible. And the knowledge that at my age I’m unlikely to ever want to/manage to get there again. Going down is generally more enjoyable, although at times you have to be on your guard in places as one false step. …I make it sound like an ordeal, but it’s not, on the whole, just at times.

One the way down, I met some young Americans, and we got talking about Scottish hikes as they were keen to try some. One had even heard of that TGO challenge- a cross Scotland, find your own route expedition that people enter into each spring-which shows you the power of the internet these days. I also bumped into a couple of Inuit ladies from Alaska when I took over their picnic spot as they were leaving and we met again later and chatted about hiking there , and inevitably, climate change. It’s nice bumping into people again on the trail- there’s also an English couple I keep coming across, and another couple from California, Mark and Amanda, I’ve met and chatted to in the taxi a couple of times, although I haven’t seen them today. Certainly there’s a feeling of shared experience as you progress on the trail.

Now I could hear what sounded like distant machinery, but as I approached it was the familiar sound of dozens of cow bells, that distinctive sound of Switzerland. Half way on that descent the trail took you right though a bar, Alpage de La Peule, which seemed to be doing a roaring trade from hikers, but which my guide book, quite rightly as it turned out,warned against stopping at, as there was still a way to go.

That second half of the descent was largely on a dirt track, and very winding with a gentler gradient as it could take cars as well as mountain bikes. Well in fact I’d seen mountain bikes right at the top, and on occasions being ridden or carried up the Swiss side I was descending. How they could do that in the heat of the day I have no idea.

Finally at the bottom the last hour was spent in a very pleasant walk in the forest and by the river , partly along a quiet road, partly along tracks, through Ferret village and on to La Fouly.

Pleased to finally arrive there after six and a half hours walking, I had to wait 40 minutes in blazing sun before the proprietor arrived at 4 pm. She spoke only French, but laid the law down right away, demanding with finger pointing that we take off our boots, wear flip flops, and empty the contents of our rucksacks into plastic boxes which she let us carry to our rooms. It was all very officious and didn’t exactly make you feel welcome.

Luckily the room seems nice , and the walk tomorrow is apparently the gentlest of the whole Tour, and through forest, which I really like. Then it’s a rest day, before I resume the hike for its final four days.