Day 2: Les Contamines to Les Chapieux

Brutal. That’s how I’d describe today. But nonetheless an amazing hike and a dramatically scenic route.

Today was very much an exercise in stamina and timing. An ascent of 1444 metres- probably the most I’ve ever done in a day, and more than Ben Nevis- a long, winding descent, conscious that I had to make the taxi pickup at 430 pm (more about that later). And after the first hour or so of shade, in 25c + temperatures and blazing sunshine.

After Notre Dame de La Gorge, the climbing started, and it was steep straight away. It soon became clear just how many of us were doing this hike as none of us were moving fast. There must have been a hundred or more- people from all around the world, but it seemed from the voices and the people I spoke to, a preponderance of Americans, alongside those from France and other parts of Europe, from Asia and Australia, as well as the UK.

At Chalet La Balme many seemed to stop for a drink or a snack, but we had barely started… as we climbed to the Plan des Dames people were clearly beginning to flag. Some stopped when we came to brief flatter sections, but I realised it was better to pause half way up a steep part, have a drink and regain some energy.

Then I reached a plateau at Col du Bonhomme. Not quite the top, but 3/4 of the way there, and like most I decided by 1pm it was time for lunch. I had a display of dog herding sheep to watch, but was still clock watching as I needed to get to very top by 2pm to meet my taxi at 430 at the bottom.

This next hour was very different. Rocky, still climbing but not quite as consistently steep, and magnificent views to the south, now I had crossed the first col.

Then finally I was there.2479 metres above sea level. Shortly after there was another mountain restaurant, which seemed to be being rebuilt, judging by the helicopter bringing in builder supplies in buckets at great speed above us!

And then the descent. A steep winding zig zag that took a couple of hours and with fantastic views all around.

Finally I reached Les Chapieux in time.it seemed that the local arrangement here is that all taxis leave the village at 430. The taxi drivers seem to have some arrangement between them and a guy was walking round the bars asking for names of the passengers on his list. I tracked him down by asking another taxi driver. All a bit chaotic, and without a mobile signal, a bit of a problem if you got stuck, as all the buses were also full.

So an amazing day, but a really tough 8 hours, which I’d probably have preferred to have had another hour to do. But there you are. Apart from the 725pick up tomorrow, for the rest of the trip, I can start when I like. And take as long as I like too, there are some further long days ahead, but now I know what to expect.