This morning I said goodbye to my wife, Jeni, and my daughter, Rachel, as they headed off from Dollach for Salzburg before returning home. It’s been lovely having them with me for my first few days, and both of them have been hugely encouraging to me and my Alpe Adria endeavour, even if they don’t really understand it! So after a fond farewell, we went our separate ways, and I’m really on my own now for the next six weeks or so.
Today’s walk had two very distinct parts. The morning was alongside the river Moll, level all the way, along a cycle route. Although the main road was never far away, the gushing sound of the fast moving river disguised this completely. Sure, it was no wilderness walk, but it was a nice change- an easy few miles along the valley. Actually, I often think that valley walks are underrated. The view from below can show the scale of the mountains around and can, I think, be just as impressive, in its own way, as that from up high.
After a couple of hours, and about 7 or 8 km, I finally turned off up a path through pasture to reach the little village of Mortasch. Here, as in every little settlement around, there was another high steepled church, with an immaculate flowered graveyard, set against the backdrop of the mountainscape. After this the hard work began.
I knew from the guidebook that today involved a big ascent, of over a 1000 metres, above the height of a Scottish Munro. The first 600 or 700 metres up was by a switchback forest track, and although tiring was essentially a case of putting one foot in front of the other and ploughing on. Although it was sunny, a lot of this stretch was in the shade and when it did emerge into the open, it was surprisingly blowy, moderating the temperature and making the climb more manageable. Gaps in the trees at intervals gave beautiful views across the valley and back towards Grossglockner. Looking ahead there was also my first views of a jagged new mountain range, which I am sure I will see more of in the coming days.
After a couple of hours the route was signposted off the track up a steep little path through the forest. I had been warned about this with the guidebook describing an hour long ‘relentlessly steep’ forest path. As it turned out, while it was steep and went on for a while, I was able to pause for breath where it was more level, and towards the end a wire handrail began as I climbed up to two perfectly sited seats, with a marvellous view. So not as bad as it has sounded really.
From there on the walk went up a little more and then levelled out, taking longer than I expected and needing careful attention to avoid slipping or twisting my ankle on semi buried rocks and roots. Finally I arrived at the little settlement of Martele with yet another church (apparently the highest pilgrimage church in Austria) and a stubl/guesthouse, where I was staying for the night.
I knew my bed for the night would be a little more basic, as my luggage wasn’t being transported there, but it was probably a bit more basic than I expected. No Wi-Fi, and hence a late blog post was understandable, but having to make my own bed, and ask permission for the key to the shower which was behind a door outside, was a bit beyond my previous experience. The room itself was fine- like a little log cabin. Anyway, its setting was perfect, and the homely food they served just what I needed.
All through the day, I saw barely anyone again. The odd cyclist at the start, and then no-one else. But when I arrived at the guesthouse who should be there when the door opened than the other walker we had met on day one, who was carrying all her own gear. She said she had found today hard, which I can imagine, as it had been the most physically exhausting yet, and she had a heavy backpack. But she had still beaten me there, although she could have started earlier.
I had managed to finish the 20 km in about 7 hours, in line with the suggested time, with a heavier bag than normal as I had to carry overnight stuff to Martele. So I’m pleased that at least when mainly on the level or going up, I’m broadly in line with target times, even if, due to inherent caution, I’m much slower than average going down. Tomorrow is meant to be an easy day, but is almost all down, so we shall see how I do.
Across the Alps to the Adriatic 